Finnmark Ski and Sail Trip
Arctic Ski Touring & Sailing Adventure in Northern Norway
The dark, restless waters of the Norwegian Sea tested us early on our Finnmark ski and sail expedition. Aboard the SY Jolly—a 14.9m steel-hulled sailboat—we departed Alta, Finnmark for a sheltered anchorage deep in Øksfjord on April 20th.
Sailing Through Arctic Norway: Øksfjord to Bergsfjord
The second morning on the boat came with heavy wind and waves that rocked the boat to and fro. In order to stay on our planned sailing schedule while prioritizing safety, we decided to forgo skiing for the day and seize a brief break in the 70-knot winds that had battered us that morning, to sail to Bergsfjord. With sails raised, we pushed toward Tromsø, rolling over 3–4 meter swells at a steady 7.5 knots. Waves slammed against the rugged coastline of Arctic Norway, setting the tone for an unforgettable ski touring and sailing journey in one of the world’s most remote alpine environments.
As we rounded into Bergsfjord, the ocean calmed and the skies opened over a small fishing village perched at 70° north. Life here is stark and elemental—rooted in fishing, farming, and centuries-old Norwegian traditions. Harbours filled with fishing boats and the unmistakable scent of cod fisheries paint a vivid picture of daily life. For visitors, it’s a rare glimpse into the resilience required to thrive in Northern Norway’s harsh coastal climate.
Ski Touring in Finnmark: Challenging Conditions & Big Rewards
Leading up to the trip, Northern Norway experienced two weeks of high pressure and unusually warm temperatures—which formed a solid based and robust melt freeze crust.
- Day 1 (Øksfjord): Corn skiing on solar aspects with intense prefrontal winds
- Day 2 Storm Cycle: Gusts reaching 70 knots forced strategic move to Bergsfjord between storms
- Adaptation: Early departure to ensure we could sail safely through the straits exposed to the North Atlantic Ocean to reach sheltered anchorages deep in the fjords
Despite careful planning, the storm intensified on the third day of our trip, keeping us boat-bound for the morning. When a weather window appeared, we sailed to Bergsfjord, prioritizing safety while maximizing ski opportunities.
